The Glashütte Original Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized Edition Ref 1-49-18-01-05-30

This is not the kind of watch you normally seen from Glashütte Original, with a skeleton movement.

This manual winded movement that shows a lot of parts.

The gold case is 42mm and the dial isgalvanized silver and skeletonized.

The movement have a power reserve of 40 hours +- 5%.

28800 bph and 19 jewels incl. 5 screw-mounted gold chatons.

There is a lot of things to look at when we getting a little close.

A real nice art work.

It's cool to see the jewel at the other side of the balance wheel.


The backside is a feast for the eyes too.


The Glashütte Original Senator Moon Phase Skeletonized Edition Ref 1-49-13-15-04-30
Now we pull out the white gold model.

Here we have moon phase and power reserve meter and a small second hand.

So here is a lot of things going on.

I'm not a big fan of skeleton watches butI can always appreciate the craftsmanship.

The galvanized silver dial made a great frame to the movement.

The logo at the movement too.

And of course.

The 5 screw-mounted gold chatons.

The backside here it's a little more complex than the other movement.

Here we have 35 jewels incl.5 screw-mounted gold chatons and 28800 bph.

I love how the balance wheel looks floating here.


The blued hands really helps to read the time, I've seen skeleton watches with silver/gold hand that is impossible to read the time.


Side by side.

Then I want to finish with a couple of wristshots.

This is not the Moser you use to see, this one have awhite lacquered dial with painted black romans. As they use to say: Less is more.

The Venturer Small Seconds with the long thin blued handswith the dail higher mounted mounting, it gets an impression of floating in the air. 39 mm case made a perfect size IMO.

The feeling Moser conveys is that we go back to the time when the pocket watch was the man's jewelry by releasing this tribute to the pocket watch.

Really clean and soberwhich is the submerged sub-dial for the second hand to consolidate. The Venturer case is slimmer then the Endeavour and with the thin bezel the dial will looks bigger.

With the super domed sapphire crystal this watch is one of the most difficult one to get a nice pic of without reflections, otherwise white dials is the most easiest to shot.

A nice and clean buckle.

The buckle will works great with the black alligator strap.

So lets turn around it and check out the hand-wound HMC 327 calibre against the sapphire backcase.

18,000 bph, hacking seconds, Straumann© hairspring

The characteristic Moser "Geneva stripes" adorn the movements plates.

A close up of the power reserve meter at this minimum 3 days power reserve movement. Of course there is a blued hand that shows when it's fully winded.

Some random shots.

Certina DS PH200 Reissue

It comes with 2 thin papers boxes and this Pelican box.

Inside there is a leather pad, a compartment for the manual and warranty card, a "NATO" strap and a set of springbars.

The DS P200 is bringing back from the 60's that is good for 200 meters and the case is 42,80 mm with a little oversized IMHO 60 clicks bezel.

The red hair cross and secondhand is a great contrast to the dial. The date at 3 o'clock works too but it have been cleaner without it.

The 20mm "NATO" strap that is included have brushed parts the match the brushed case.

The leather strap looks a little cheap at the first sight but it feels very soft and with the matte surface it really grows on me but it is way too long for a normal build guy.

The doomed Hesalite crystal is so cool and frame the dial perfectwhen it distorts the edge of the dial.

The leather strap with the polished SS buckle and quick release springbars.

Ufortunately so is the clasp at the "NATO" strap much nicer than the on at the leather strap, the "NATO" is 20mm and the leather strap is 20/18mm so it will not fits at the leather strap.

The backcaseis a little imaginative with a lot of info.

Now it's time to pull it off.

The ETA Powermatic 80 with 80 hours power reserve just looks like a ETA movement. A little nice detail is the excenter screw that adjust the balance wheel.

Another cool part is the rubber ring around the movement that secure it from impact I guess.

The blue Luminova (I guess) is not so bright but I get the feeleing it stays longer that it use to do.

So my final decision is that you got a lot of watch here around €700. Great looking, good size and a reliable movement.

Glashütte Original PanoGraph

A dress chronograph don't need a tachymeter scale when you timing with style.

It's so cool with the 3 hand chronograph minute counter that is genius IMHO with 3 scales, unique.

The Pano serie really appeal to me.

Of course the panorama date is there too.

There is so much details here so I let the movement speak for itself. Just enjoy it in some different positions.

NORD ZEITMASCHINE VARIOCURVE V4
It start a few years back when I first meet Daniel Nebel at the Basel show. The watches he made get my attention at the first sight.
When he show me the Variocurve I was very impressed about the watch and how he have solved things to make it work ashe wanted.
Daniel is a very great person that really burn for his watches and nothing seems to be impossible when he got the idea.
After the show I couldn't stop thinking about the Variocurve and when he show me the white rhodium/blue V4 I was lost.
He do most of the work machinery that contains mostas a young watchmakermay need. He is born in 1971 and have work with
his own watches since 1998. He began his career with an apprenticeship as a mechanic and he told me how he get into watches
very early. He was 25 years old and got a beaten up Omega from his uncle and when he chat with a friend so ask his freind: Why
don't you made a new case to the watch at your work? No that sounds like a too big challenge Daniel says. The friend reply:
You trying to tell me you can't made one? When he come home and should sleep he can't stop thinking about his friends statement.
Next day he start made his first and his own watch case, a few days later he shows his "new" watch for his friend that was very quiet.
I don't know his friends name but I thank him anyway.
So that was the start that made Daniel Nebel made his own watches with the name NORD ZEITMASCHINE a few years later.
Ok, lets take a look at the Variocurve.
It comes in a black outer box with the name at the top.

The inner box is well protected.

A black piano lacquered top andhigh gloss blue marbled bottom gives a sober impression of the box.

Creamy leather at the inside.

And some tools and screws at the backside of the pillow.

Here Mr Nebel will show me the watch but he is just so excited as I so he can't stand still for a pic. :-)))
The new model V4 was ready only 2 weeks before the show.

So lets take a closer look at the watch. The dial/plate at Variocurve V4 is white rhodium coated with geneva stripes and hand painted.

Here are some pictures from NORD's webpage where we can follow his work.
The case of the Variocurve is made of one piece of stainless steel. 43.6 mm diameter so it's not a small watch.

The guy not even buy the screws. :-)))

He even made some of the gears too.

The plate that is the dial.

The unique minute and the only hand at the Variocurve the reminds me of the Mercedes wiper.

The sapphire crystal is slightly doomed and the backside have a flat sapphire crystal. The bezel is fixed by 7 screws.

The crown is huge, maybe a little too big for my taste.

But it's not a screw down crown so the problem with a Rolex crown that never line up with the case dosen't exist on this watch. :-))) The watch is water resistant to 100 meters anyway.

I love the sporty look with the blasted parts at the sides.

The clasp is huge too, it match the case pretty well. A 22 mm black calf strap give the watch a nice look.

The Variocurve V4 is limited to 97 pieces.

IMHO the white rhodium against the blue parts get a very nice contrast. The polished gears and the blue screws looks awesome.

NORD's webpage says this about the movement:
NORD N2 MinutesVARIOCURVE / double minute segment display / hours decentralized / date. 25 jewelsand 5 integrated precision microballbearings.Sliding parts as
the minute hand from the material ARCAP. Symmetrical 360° winding rotor with integrated winding weights, which are not visible by looking through the bottom. 28800 vibrations
per hour / power reserve to 42 h / basic ETA 2824

The work Mr Nebel have done with the movement is awesome, IMHO the nicest ETA I've ever seen. The rotor is unique too with a hidden weight.
He put a module at the ETA movement that contains 56 pieces that is his work and he have made in hisengineering workshop.

So now I will enjoy this timepiece.

Many people say it's hard to read the time, I will say no. After wear the watch for a while so can you see very easy where the minute hand is at the
dial and then it's easy to tell the time IMHO. When you have learn the minute scale it's very fast to tell the time. The only problem I have notice
it it's hard to set the time when the minute hand is in the outer dials area. But it's only to wait a few minutes and the hand is at the dial scale again. :-)))

I saw this day was comming.

Turning 55 is one step closer to the walker I guess and some youngsters will call me a old man.

When you be welcomed to the 55 club there is no way back from the gold.

In Sweden we usually to get a gold watch after 25 years at the same employer. I'm now have done 28 years at mine and my cheap boss haven't.
give me one yet, not even a hint. So I have to take care of it and admit today when I hit 55 is the day so I have to unboxing this interesting box.

The rest of the watch isn't bad either,H Moser & Cie is recognized by their characteristic hands. Less is more, or what?

This model start with the name Mayu and today Moser call it Endeavour Small Seconds with the rose gold case in 38,8mm made the perfect size for a dress watch.

The Maroon dial is not longer a option and IMHO it match the rose gold perfect.

The Maroon dial with the gold hands is a awesome combo, in 2017 brown is the new black.

The dark brown alligator leather strap looks really nice and it have the same high quality feeling as the watch.

The clasp made in 18ct rose gold.

The case have a unique shape at the sides.

A great option is the little recess at the crown that made it easier to pull it out.

The inhouse caliber HMC 321 with 27 jewels is a feast for the eye, I really like the Moser "Geneva stripes" that have a personal touch.

The power reserve indicator have a fixed lever and the wheel is turning when you wind the watch, I guess they have hidden a small gear behind the jewel.
Moser says the power reserve is minimum 3+ days or 80 hours but this one runs 110 hours when it's fully winded so it will be around 4 hours on each line.

Another interesting thing is the "swan neck" that is not a swan neck. This is a Piton holder. It attaches the piton to the bridge and makes sure, the piton is
in the right position. The interchangeable escape module can be serviced separate outside the movement and pre-adjusted before installing it at the movement.

The hacking mechanism is brutal.

Just put it at the balance wheel and the movement stops. The balance spring is made inhouse too.

With some photo effects the movement looks real nice.


This is a sober dress watch.




It's not easy to make the sunburst dial justice.



You really feel and it really breathing top quality.

The box don't tell us much.

The logo reveals what it is and I guess some is familiar with it.

Yes, it's a full set that only miss the watch so I have to see if I can find it.

I do and now we getting closer.

The crown has the logo too and here we can see it's a chronograph.

A touch of blue and retro style will be great.

Yes it's a Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph with a sector dial. This is the 25 years anniversary of the Master Control series that was released in 1992.

This watch was presented at the SIHH 2017 in Geneva and the rumor says it will only been produced in one year.

The blued hollow baton hands are not what you see everyday.

Some love them, some don't like them. I really like them and it's so cool when the hour hand is below the minute hand.

The watch have a nice discreet blue alligator strap but the clasp looks a little cheap IMHO. I have prefer a folding clasp on this one.

It's a shame to put a solid back case on a JLC watch with their nice looking movements. This is the only model in this sector dial series of Master
Control's with a solid back case. This one have a 40mm case and the other in this serie have a 39mm case so I guess a back case from those not
fits at this onewhich had been tempting to acquire and put on.

Of course JLC have put some nice details to the back case.

The water resistance is set to 5 bar so it's best to keep it dry.
'
And it have the 1000 hours control where the movement is tested in 1000 hours before delivery.

So I can't see any reason not to check out the nice movement that JLC try to hide.

It has a high finish but lacks the decorations that the other movement has in the series. No blued screws or gold parts.

The caliber 751G according to JLC (mine says 751F) 28800 bph, 37 jewels, 2 barrels & 65 hour power reserve.

There is a lot of variations at the finsh and it pass a close inspection.

The column wheel in focus.

A discreet lever will stop the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out.
Something that I notice is the movement is flaweless but look at the the screw at the upper left corner at the case (I guess it hold the bezel)
that is mounted with a wrong screwdriver. Not a big deal, but a watch in this price range should be putted together with correct tools.

The dial becomes different in diiferent light.

I love the brushed and blasted surface at the dial and the contrasting blue parts.

I notice it's not easy to set it exactly because when I push in the crown so will the minute hand jump a half minute.

So blue as it gets.



The deep of the subdialsreally make the dial live.

8 days of brown sugar

Can be sweet to your coffee.

Or be very attractive.

Or just a very nice watch.

It comes with a great dark brown strap and a titanium clasp.

It's not the model you see everyday.
It's a base model (that I really like) with the 8 days movement that is really clean.

I don't know if it's the brown dial or the Titanium case that make it not so popular.

I just love the model, the brown color is outstanding but very hard to get correct in a pic.
The caliber P5000 have a power reserve of 8 days or 192 hours that is awesome for a manual wind movement.
21 jewels, 21600 bhp, two spring barrels will make sure the power reserve will last long.



It glow in the dark too.


'
On the wrist

Rolex GMT Master Ref 1675

So we start with this one.

Now I have made myself a opener that can take the Bergeon tool.

A nice plastic caseholder are in place too.

And there is the inside.

Nothing fancy.

So I start to pull out the winding crown.


Then I go for the movement. It looks like the last watchmaker slipped with the screwdriver. :-)))

Now it's in the movement holder.

Then I pull off the rotor.

And turn it around.

Next step in the hands.

And the dial.

And the datewheel.

Now I stop for the moment.

Up with the case in the bezel remover.

There goes that one.

The crystal was glued, not a good idea. So next step is to pull off the crown tube.


And a bath.

Then I remove the rest of the glue and brush the surface.

I believe that will be okey now.

A new crown tube.


The o-ring in place too.

And a fresh crystal.

Now we went back to the movement when the case a drying. A new bright white datewheel with open 6 and 9.

And here is the dial I will use.

And of course a fresh set of hands with the orange hand.

So now it's time to put the hands in place.

The orange fits like a glove.

And the rest.

Then we go back to the case and put a bezel on.

This will be good.

Damn, now we talking.

Now I have to get rid of the last gold part.


Then I put together the last parts and here is the result.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

This time I have the chance to take a little closer look to the Perpetual Calendar in the Senator Excellence line.

The dial is varnished silver-grainé.

This is a full size dresswatch with it's 42mm case diameter made in 18 ct red gold.

The dial have it all, romans, stick markers and arabic numerals.

This caliber 36 as the base movement is the top of the line with the perpetual calendar, center second, panorama date, day & month window, leap year indicator & moon phase

This is one of the easiest perpetual calendar to set with the push buttons at the side.

The blued hands give the white dial a great touch.

The caliber 36 three quarter plate is loaded with the "5 gear in a row" that looks awesome and makes it easily recognizable.

The caliber 36 still have 100 hours power reserve with only one barrel that is impressive with all those complications.

The rotor still have the 21 ct weight that make it spin and wind the watch in both directions.

The balance wheel in caliber 36 have 4 adjustment screws and the traditional swan neck to secure a precise timekeeping.

Nice and clean with the Glashütte ribbings.

Slightly harder editing to highlight the effects at the movement.

Some mixed pictures.






A syudy in blue.



And of course a wristshot.

A huge thanks to The Glashütte Original Teamwhich makes me happy to get acquainted with their unique creations.

My lovely 219 destro

Rolex DayDate Ref 18039

I start with this one.

Open it up

Cal 3055


Pull out the movement


Next step is to pull off the bezel.

And the crystal

Press out the crystal


There is a few crack

Then put the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner

So I will go a little deeper for the first time in the movement.

What can be better that a cal 3055 to practice with?

The rotor is now off


Then we flip it

There is the dial and hand off too

And the german daywheel s history too

Some fresh bright white wheels with english days


There it's in place

And a nice dial too

The glacier/polar blue one with romans unique for the Platinum DayDate.

And some hands

A new crystal too

There we go

Time to put it together.

The final result


I just love it



Then I add a swedish daywheel.